We set off to visit Monte Generoso in Ticino on Father’s Day. On this cold but sunny day, the sat nav guided us to the train station, where signposts helped us find the designated car park for the attraction.
An orange and blue cog train was ready at the Capolago train station. The very first train departed at 10:15 AM, carrying many hikers on board. A German lady sat next to me, fully equipped for an all-weather hike. Her backpack was packed with essentials, and she had foldable walking sticks attached to its side. She explained that she planned to take the train to Bellavista, from where she would hike up to the summit. Bellavista is the station just before the last one, situated at 1,223 meters. From there, it’s almost a 500-meter elevation gain on a snowy path to Fiore Di Pietra, which stands at 1,704 meters.
Ascent
The train carried a large open container in front of the wagon. Passengers could place their tools, backpacks, or strollers and trailers there. By leaving bulky items outside in this container, boarding was much easier.
The wagon had two row seats facing each other, which is perfect for a group of four. Our train was almost full, but eventually we settled down. The train set off on time and departed on its 9 km journey on the steep slopes slowly climbing up and up. There were 3 stops along the 40 minutes ride.
The departure felt like the takeoff of a plane. The train slowly ascended the hill, crossing several roads along the way. Looking out the window on one side, the mountain was almost within arm’s reach, whereas the valley we had left behind was visible only if we stood up from our seats. As the train continued through the forest, it passed through many tunnels. The horn sounded before each entrance, alerting passengers to the darkness ahead.
After passing through the bare forest, we finally reached the snow level and slowly everything around us turned white. The trails were well signed for hikers, but mostly covered with snow. By the time we pulled into the final station, the snow was thick and strong on the ground.
Fiore di Pietra
The cog train stops right in front of the ‘stone flower’ building. Although, I can see the concept of the flower bulb when looking at the building, but to me, it looked like a rocket station. Standing out tall from the bare snowy mountain top. Surrounded by the blue sky and some white clouds. The antennas of the weather station in the area were just adding more to this futuristic picture.
The ground was covered in snow, piled as high as the benches, which made our stroll a bit challenging. After a quick round on the cloud swing, we decided to head in the opposite direction. We took the elevator with the buggy to the terrace of the Fiore di Pietra building. From the terrace, we navigated around the playground and found the path leading up to the “Grand Tour” sign.
Grand Tour
The snowy, steep path had a rope handrail on the left, and at the edge was an opening to the valley, which felt both exciting and dangerous. Obsessed with taking photos at the Grand Tour sign, we took our time as we gradually ascended. To our right, the peak was covered in long grass beneath a blanket of snow. Our eldest found some huge icicles where the grass hung off the stones. With the sun at its highest, we could hear the water dripping from the melting icicles. The atmosphere was quiet, with our heavy breaths mingling with the sound of dripping water and occasional giggles whenever we slipped on the melting snow. Reaching the sign was a challenge with a baby strapped to my front, but we managed to get there.
There was no way to push the buggy up to the viewing point, it was a walk and carry path for those with little kids in the crew.
Bellavista
On the way down we had brunch at the Bellavista Buffet restaurant. With the train stopping right at the entrance of the restaurant, we created a bit of a traffic jam. With the warmest welcome from the waitresses, we were seated at our table. The place and the set up reminded me to the English pubs. Bare tables with a quirky table numbers made out of the cog of the train track. Buffet style set up with help yourself stations, just like a good old Sunday roast in England.
Across from the restaurant, there is a lovely lookout terrace with benches to relax while enjoying the magnificent view. We took the next train down as the kids started to get overtired.
Descent
The journey from Bellavista to Capolago took only 25 minutes. The leaves on the ground glowed golden in the sunlight, making the forest look stunning. After passing through tunnel after tunnel, we finally returned to the village. Following two more road crossings, the train came to a complete stop. Just like on an aerplane, passengers were eager to disembark as soon as possible.
We haven’t left the village yet, when both little ones were snoozing loudly in the car. Mission accomplished – I thought. I know they won’t remember. But they can listen to the stories of our mini adventures and look at the photos and videos we are making.
Why We Love Monte Generoso
Playing in the snow is number one on our eldest’s list. He told me we must return in the summer, so he can try the playground on the top of the mountain, and go all the way up to the very top look out, which was not possible due to the snowy circumstances. So be aware a summer version of this trip will come to your way sooner or later.
Our daughter would definitely include swinging in the clouds on her list. She really enjoyed going back and forth on the long swing at the top of the mountain.
The train ride felt like an attraction in itself, reminiscent of a miniature train at a funfair with kids. We passed through numerous small tunnels, holding our breath at the sound of the horn until we emerged into the light on the other side.
Expat Mom Journal 