Trip Duration: Half or Full Day ⛰️ Difficulty Level: Moderate to challenging with young children 🚸 Trip Date: August 2026
Descending from one cable-car station to another sounded like a clever way to explore more of the mountain without making our children climb uphill. It was a perfectly reasonable plan—until a thunderstorm began chasing us down the trail and we discovered exactly what it meant to finish on the wrong side of the mountain.
Quick Overview
- Location: Großdorf, Osttirol, Austria
- Parking: Free parking at the Großglockner Resort cable-car station in Großdorf
- Getting there: Cable car from Großdorf to the mountain station at 2,421 metres above sea level
- Difficulty: Moderate to challenging with young children due to steep sections and loose stones.
- Pushchair: A large all-terrain buggy can manage parts of the route, but the steep, loose descent was difficult to control. For young children, I would recommend a carrier.
- Facilities: Toilets are available near the ticket office and at the Adler Lounge mountain station.
Our Adventure
I spent quite some time trying to decide how we should approach this destination. The mountain can be accessed from several cable-car stations, and many of the official routes suggested hiking from a lower station towards a higher one. However, only part of the route was described as pushchair-friendly.
Eventually, I decided that we would travel to the highest cable-car station and walk downhill to the Goldried mountain station (2,190 m) in Matrei on the opposite side of the mountain. If we still had enough time and energy, we could then explore part of the Europa Panorama Trail, which would lead us towards Kals Mittelstation mountain station (1,964 m), the middle station of the cable car we had originally taken.
On paper, it appeared to be a flexible family route. We could complete the descent first and decide later whether everyone had enough energy for the second stage. What I had not fully considered was how we would return to our car if we finished the day on the other side of the mountain.
Arrival and Ascent
A modern, spacious cable car carried us from Großdorf towards the Adler Lounge. There was plenty of room for our family, the buggy and all the belongings that naturally accompany a day in the mountains with three children.
During the journey, the cabin passed through a middle station, where it slowed down and the doors opened for passengers to get on or off. Several hiking trails passed through this station, including the route we hoped to explore later.
At the top, we stepped out onto a large open viewing area surrounded by information boards identifying the mountains visible from that point. According to the official website, more than 60 peaks above 3,000 metres can be seen from here.
On that beautifully clear afternoon, it was easy to believe. Mountain peaks stretched as far as we could see beneath a bright blue sky. There was no immediate sign of the weather that would soon be chasing us down the trail.
Racing the Rain Down the Mountain
When we left Großdorf, the weather forecast predicted rain at around 17:00. The final cable car was scheduled to depart at 16:30, so I felt confident that we would be safely back at the car before the weather changed.
We took our time at the top of the mountain, lingering a little longer over the views from the Adler Lounge before setting off along the trail.
As we descended through the mountain meadows, we spotted what appeared to be the furry brown back of a marmot disappearing into one of the many holes beside the path. We waited patiently, hoping it might reappear, but this particular mountain host was too shy to show itself again.
We did not know it then, but a few days later, on another mountain, we would receive a much warmer welcome from one of its relatives.
As we approached the first man-made lake, thunder began rumbling in the distance.
It still sounded far away, and we convinced ourselves that the storm might pass elsewhere. We even stopped beside the lake for our picnic before continuing downhill.
It soon became clear that the thunder was moving closer. We strapped our two youngest children into the buggy, packed away the camera equipment and picked up our pace along the zigzagging trail.
Towards the end, the path became so steep and loose that it took three adults to control the buggy. My husband held it from behind while my dad and I steadied it from either side, trying to prevent its wheels—and our feet—from slipping on the stones.
The sky grew darker and the wind began to pick up. In the distance, we could clearly see a curtain of rain approaching from the direction of the Matrei cable-car station—the very place we were trying to reach.
The station was already visible, but a long stretch of trail still separated us from its shelter. Other hikers began appearing around us, all hurrying in the same direction as the storm closed in.
Descending on the Wrong Side of the Mountain
Just before reaching the cable-car station, we passed through a wooden gate. On the other side, several large cows greeted us with complete calmness. They were probably accustomed to seeing hikers pass every day, but our children had never been quite so close to such enormous animals.
There was little time to stop and admire them. We hurried past, reached the station and divided ourselves between two cable-car cabins for the journey down.
Once again, we had come close to needing the final ride of the day. The rain finally caught up with us during the descent, but by then we were safely inside the cable car.
Finding Our Way Back to the Car
By the time we reached the valley, the rain had stopped, although thunder was still rumbling around us. We asked the woman at the ticket office how we could return to the cable-car station in Großdorf.
She gave a slightly nervous chuckle as she looked at our three-generation group and explained that there was only one realistic option: the bus.
Following her directions, we walked towards the bus stop in front of the SPAR shop. Unfortunately, we initially went to the wrong side of the road. We even watched our bus arrive at the correct stop and continued walking, unaware that it was the one we needed.
The service ran only once an hour. After the first 15-minute journey, returning to Großdorf required another bus—and that connection operated only once every two hours.
We eventually decided to divide the family. I took our three tired children directly back to the hotel, while my husband and parents travelled in the opposite direction to retrieve the cars from Großdorf.
In a perfectly timed piece of mountain absurdity, both buses arrived at the same time. Each journey would take approximately 25 minutes, but they carried our family in completely opposite directions.
What the Kids Loved
What Our Youngest Loved
- Riding in the spacious cable car
- Throwing stones into the mountain lake
- Running between the tables on the large Adler Lounge terrace
What Our Daughter Loved
- Stopping for a picnic beside the lake
- Smelling the mountain flowers and naming their colours
- Retreating to the comfort of the buggy when the weather changed
What Our Eldest Loved
- Taking in the views from the trail
- Counting the seconds between lightning and thunder to work out whether the storm was approaching
- Finding his own path through the meadows with Grandma
Practical Tips for Parents
Closed Shoes with Good Grip
The trail includes steep sections covered with loose stones and rocks. Because we visited during the height of summer, I initially set off in hiking sandals. It did not take long for me to regret that decision. My feet kept slipping forward, and I repeatedly hurt my toes against the stones.
I changed into closed shoes shortly after leaving the mountain station, and immediately felt more comfortable and secure. Even on a warm day, I would recommend sturdy closed shoes with good grip for this route.
Stay on the trail
Walking this trail with young children required our full attention. Our children usually enjoy wandering ahead and finding their own way, but the loose ground and changing drops beside the path meant that we had to keep them close.
Some meadow sections offered more freedom to explore, but along the steeper and narrower parts of the trail, we held hands and made sure everyone remained on the marked route.
Check the Weather and Keep Checking
The forecast predicted rain at around 17:00, while the final cable car was scheduled to leave at 16:30. I therefore felt confident that we would be safely back before the weather changed. In the mountains, however, conditions can develop much faster than expected.
Check the forecast before setting out, but continue watching the sky throughout the walk. Allow plenty of extra time to reach a cable-car station or another safe shelter, particularly when travelling with young children.
Check the Bus Connections Before Setting Out
If your walk finishes at a different cable-car station, check the public-transport connections before beginning your hike. We discovered that returning to Großdorf required two buses, with the second service running only once every two hours.
Public transport was included with our Osttirol Card during our visit, but it was the infrequent timetable—not the cost of the tickets—that complicated our return. Downloading or photographing the timetable in advance would have saved us considerable confusion.
Do Not Rely on the Buggy Alone
Even our large all-terrain buggy became difficult to control on the steepest sections of the descent. At one point, it took three adults to guide it safely over the loose stones.
If you are visiting with a baby or toddler, I would bring a carrier—even if you also decide to take an all-terrain buggy. It provides an alternative if the terrain becomes too steep or difficult.
Would We Visit Again?
Oh yes—but next time, we would arrive with a much clearer plan.
I would love to return and complete the designated Family Hiking Trail, including the Europa Panorama Trail. We would either plan an out-and-back route or carefully check the return connections before setting off.
The views, mountain meadows and sense of adventure would certainly bring us back. We would simply make sure that, next time, both our family and our car finish the day on the same side of the mountain.
A Moment to Remember
As the two buses arrived almost simultaneously, our family divided at the roadside. I travelled back to the hotel with three exhausted children, while my husband and parents continued in the opposite direction to retrieve the cars. It was not the ending I had pictured while studying the hiking map—but it was a fitting conclusion to an adventure that had taken us over the mountain and quite literally left us on the wrong side of it.
